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Ride Report: The Alliance’s Cape Loop

We’re more or less stuck in the bus station that is the Mexico City Airport. Our layover was 16 hours, so we snagged one of the many hotels in the airport and took a nap, a long, well deserved nap. We had started traveling at 2 AM that morning.

We awoke from our slumber after the sun had ducked down behind the mountains and thousands of houses that surrounded us. We weren’t quite ready for dinner and also not too excited to venture out in this megapolis in the dark without a plan. So we walked around the airport/bus stations/mall. Once we got bored and started to feel the need for some more tacos, we headed back to the hotel. On our way, I found a shop that was selling beer. I grabbed a Negra and headed toward the cashier who was on the phone. She saw me walking up and without thought or hesitation handed me a bottle opener.

I think Mexico and I are going to get along just fine…

The Cape Loop is a 280ish mile loop starting in La Paz, Mexico. It heads south into the mountains and then drops back to the Sea of Cortez following the coast to Cabo Frailes before climbing up over the mountains and dropping into San Jose del Cabo. From San Jose it climbs back up out of the central valley and drops to the Pacific side at Todos Los Santos. And then back to La Paz.

All of these towns and cities are connected by a network of rough, sometimes overly steep, dirt roads that see little traffic. Camping is available anywhere there isn’t a fence and you can find a flat spot. Resupply points are found every 20-55 miles. These resupplies at a minimum offer water, but typically have some cold Cokes and the bigger cities you can find whatever you need.

Sitting here a little more than a week after arriving home, I’m still trying to sort all of it out in my head. A trip like this ends up being a million little stories wrapped into one big package that can be hard to tell. So here’s a list of the significant happenings:

  1. I got heat stroke on the first 15 mile climb out of town. Not a great way to start, but it ended up fine.
  2. The sun is super intense.
  3. Riding along the cliffs of the Sea of Cortez, with no one else around is pretty bitchin’.
  4. Sleeping on the beach, yup, it’s a thing.
  5. Early morning starts so we avoid riding during the hottest part of the day provide the opportunity to see some rad sunrises.
  6. I really like Mexican beer.
  7. We met up with Dirty Biker and drank a few too many IPAs at the brewery in Todos Los Santos.
  8. Yes, you can find IPAs in Baja.
  9. El Triunfo, while off course, is worth the 4 miles of pedaling.
  10. Caught Norman in El Triunfo after following his tracks for a few days. He decides to continue and we camp in town.
  11. Mexican mornings are silent.
  12. Mexican nights are super loud whether you are smack dab in the middle of a city or tucked away in a wash in the desert.
  13. La Paz is way more fun the second time.

And here’s the photos of all those little stories. Stay tuned for more detailed reports.

P. L. and R.

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